Goats are such intelligent and nimble creatures, more like deer than other domestic animals, that it's no wonder they are fairly difficult to fence in. But, in most parts of the country, it is necessary to fence the goats in, not only to keep them away from other agricultural crops, but also for their own safety. Stray dogs and other predators are likely to take advantage if dairy goats are not kept safe in lots or guarded pastures.

Note the X of twisted wire on this H brace on a woven wire fence.

I've had dairy goats for nearly 40 years and have learned a lot, often by trial and error. I live in an area where predator control has been a problem and building effective fences is important to the health and safety of my dairy herd. Now, the only time my goats get out is when someone forgets to hook the gate.

The most economical type of goat fencing I have found for large pastures is woven wire fencing, also known as stock fence. The "economy" version of this type of fencing will not last, so the fence builder must invest in the heavy-gauge wire available at most farm supply outlets.

When building a fence, it is important to set the corners, braces, and gate posts first. These are made with wood posts, treated on the bottoms, at least eight feet long and six inches in diameter. I do not use green treated posts as they contain arsenic. Goats might lick and nibble on them. Since my goal is to fence the goats in-not kill them-I stay away from green treated lumber. Also, I would not want arsenic residues in the milk and other dairy products produced.

To make the corners of the fence strong, I dig a hole at least 3-1/2' deep and four inches wider than the post in all directions. This allows room for enough cement in the hole to hold the post solidly in place for years and years to come.

If dirt instead of cement is packed in the fence corners, the post holes must be wide enough to allow two inches all around the post for tamping in the fill dirt. After setting the pole, spread a shoveful of dirt in the hole evenly all around, then tamp in forcefully with a tamping bar or narrow-diameter wood stake. When the hole is filled, the dirt should be mounded around the pole to allow for rain run-off.

When all corners have been set, it's time to run a heavy string tightly all around the pasture. This marks the fence line. Not using a fence line could result in a zig-zap final appearance as it is difficult to simply eyeball the intermediatory posts in a straight line. It also is difficult to tightly stretch a crooked fence.

Braces should be placed six feet each way from the corner posts. These posts should be set with cement as well, but dirt will do. A shallow notch in the brace posts will receive a horizontal 4" x 4" post, two-thirds up from the ground, spiked into place. This unifies the corner with an H. To further unify and strengthen the corner, cut a loop of double twisted 12 gauge wire (smooth, barbless or barbed wire) to fit from the top of the corner post to the bottom of the second post. This should be left a bit baggy (about four inches is right) for later tightening. Staple the wire at the top and bottom to keep it in place. Repeat the process, making an X out of the wire loops. Then insert a piece of rounded hardwood, about 18" long, in one loop and twist to tighten. When about snug, do the same with the other loop. Then go back and really tighten the first until things start to creak. Use the crosspiece to hold the end of the tightening sticks, so the wire can not unwind. Repeat these steps with every corner for a solid fence that will last generations!

To make gate openings, dig seven inch diameter posts down at least four feet minimum. I strongly recommend using concrete on the gate posts on which the gate will hinge, as this is usually the weakest part of the fence...and it gets the most use and stress.

After the corners, braces, and gates are in place, pound in steel T posts along the string line. They should be placed 12 feet apart. Wooden posts can also be used, but should be set in at least two and one half feet into the ground, and be four inches minimum in diameter.

When the posts are in, it's time to stretch the woven wire on the "goat side" of the posts. Two ratchet-type wire stretchers, one on top and one on the bottom, will keep the wire tight. The best method is to alternately tighten the top and then the bottom, keeping the fence square. Make it tight, but not so tight that the little waves in the wire are pulled straight.

Staple the wire to wooden posts, using 1-1/2" heavy staples, minimum. Use a hammer and put the staple in on a diagonal, never in the same direction as the grain of the wood, or the post will crack slightly, weakening the hold the staple has on the wire.

I like to use a barbed wire on top of the fence for reinforcement, and also electric fence wires, one down about a foot from the top of the fence, and another one six inches or so up from the bottom of the fence. This keeps goats from standing on the wire or leaning through and prevents predators from crawling under the wire fence.

Woven wire stock fencing.

The electric fence also prevents horned goats from the temptation of sticking their heads through the woven wire, a sometimes fatal error they cannot get out off. I use the type of plastic insulators that hold the electric wire a few inches away from the posts and fence. This shocks "offending" goats before they get near the woven wire fence. If electricity is not available to run the fence, there are many good solar fencers on the market. A string trimmer and timely mainenance will keep any long grass from shorting out the electric wire.

For smaller enclosures, I prefer to use welded wire stock panels, reinforced with wooden rails on the "goat side." These will not need to be strengthened by the electric fencing unless predators are a problem. Then consider running a double line of electric fencing on the outside...just in case.

The wooden rails let the goats stand on something solid while looking about...a favorite goat-hobby. While the heavy gauge welded panels will take a lot of abuse, sooner or later they bend after being jumped and stood on for years. Should a pole-vaulting goat inhabit the pen, you can run a hot wire all the way around the top for insurance.

Other good fences for goats include 2" x 4" heavy gauge welded or woven wire or chain link. Both are expensive but strong. No matter the choice, however, I advise always using an electric back-up. It justs makes the initial fence last so much longer.

That said, I do not recommend electric as the only method of fencing. No matter how many wires run or how high the fence, I have had escapes and predator problems with electric only fencing.

I have had great luck finding free wood pallets which can make an attractive and protective "privacy" fence for my goats. When stood on end, the five foot high pallets can be bridged with 2" x 4"'s on the top and bottom pallet stringers. We screwed our own pallet fence to eight foot wooden posts (placed in deep holes), and ended up with shade for summer, wind break in winter, and a predator-proof fence that the goats loved. And it was free!

Goat fencing comes in many shapes and forms, but the main thing to remember is to make it strong and tight, from the beginning. Then it will last.